Wednesday, 17 May 2017

Athena Top Tutorial - Day 3

Here we are, half way through the week and today we get to see the Athena top really take shape!

Here is the plan for the rest of the week:

Today - Finish and attach the peplum
Day 5 - Adding the zipper, finishing the lining (if lining) and other finishing touches

Step 6 - Sewing the peplum pleats

Place the peplum front wrong side down and fold the two peplum pleats on the left hand side towards the centre front.  I find it easier to secure the one closest to the centre front (yellow pins) first, and then the outer peplum pleat.

Stitch the left pleats in place on the 1cm seam allowance (not within it).

Repeat these steps for the pleats on the right hand side (yellow then red).

Step 7 - Assembling the Peplum

  Stitch the back peplum pieces to the front peplum piece at side seams, right sides together, and press seams open.

Step 8 - Adding a narrow hem to the peplum

 Stitch a row of stiching 1/4" or about 7mm from the raw edge of the peplum, following the curve of the hemline.  (On many machines you can do this by setting up a 1cm seam allowance and moving your needle to the right.)

Fold the hem upwards, wrong sides together, using the stitchline as your guide and press in place.

Fold the hem up again and press upwards, pinning in place.
Machine stitch to secure.

Your completed narrow hem should look like this!

Step 9 - Attaching the peplum to the bodice

Lay the peplum on the bodice, right sides together.  

With the peplum facing up match each pleat at the 1cm seamline carefully with pins, using the line of stitching on the peplum as your guide.  

(You may find it easier to baste in place with a needle and thread, if you you prefer.)

Follow the line of stitching along the peplum pleats with a machine stitch to secure

It should look like this...

When you are happy that the pleats on the bodice and peplum match, continue around the rest of the waist seam.

The bodice and peplum have now taken shape!

Tomorrow we continue with the sleeves and neckline. 

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